DIY automotive repair: How to diagnose brake problems

March 31, 2011 By

There really isn’t a more wonderful experience for a Kansas mom than getting off of a plane in Orange, California to see your two college age daughters, than being greeted by the familiar sound of that gut-wrenching grinding of metal against metal as we pulled to a quick stop upon leaving the airport on a California freeway. I then discovered that like many other people, I obviously had not taught my children to recognize warning signs for brake problems, or for that matter reminded them of basic preventive maintenance before problems become severe, dangerous and expensive.

Four hundred dollars, two rotors and four brake shoes and pads later, (which was reasonable for the West Coast,thanks to a kind local mechanic), my daughters and I went over the basics of brake maintenance and recognizing key warning signs of brake problems.

First and foremost, get a four-wheel brake check every six months, regardless of whether noise is heard or any brake problems have been experienced. A good rule of thumb is when the car is taken in for the routine oil check or tire rotation, also run a check on the brakes.

A brake light will not come on unless a brake problem has worn into the drum. If the brake light has come on, usually the entire system needs to be replaced and the vehicle is a danger to drive. Not only have the shoes and pads been worn, but most likely the problem extends from the rotor into the drum. It is very expensive to repair the entire brake system.

Between checks these are some warning signs of brake problems:

1. Get used to the car. I tell both of my daughters, turn off the radio from time to time. Listen to the sound the car makes when you drive and when you brake. Also, feel the car. If the brake pedal feels mushy or gets harder and higher when you pump it, the brakes may need to be bled. (this means to get the air bubbles out of the lines)

2. If a high pitched scraping or squealing noise goes away when you step on the brake your brake pads might be worn. -only if the brake pads have sensors attached.

3. A grinding of metal against metal sound when braking indicates it is too late. The brake pads and shoes are gone. And now they are grinding into your rotors and soon into your drums. Stop driving the vehicle and get the car your mechanic. Sometimes they can smooth those rotors out if caught soon enough.

4. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, the vehicle could need a new brake master cylinder.

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DIY automotive repair: How to change a flat tire – Part 5

March 30, 2011 By

Thank God! I’m fortunate enough to have been taught by my grandfather to change a tire…he always said to me…learn everything you can so you won’t have to depend on a man all the time..

Well if this happens Ladies….1) Don’t panic…slow down, make sure you can get to the side of the road. 2) Always make sure you have a spare and all the necessary items to actually change a tire on your own… spare tire, a jack, a crow bar and something to clean yourself off with…cause Ladies get ready to get down and dirty. Always put the hand break on, and well try to find a large rock or something big enough to put behind the rear tire of the side you got your flat on, this will also help if the car moves for any reason. 3) Take your crow bar and loosen the tire bolts a little before you raise the car, loosening the bolts may be difficult but Ladies give it all you got, and if this is still hard.. well hell jump on the damn crow bar… after you loosen the bolts a bit then you start you to raise the car, this part ain’t as bad as it will look. Once the car is up on the jack, you have to loosen the bolts all the way now, and Ladies please make sure you keep those bolts together, don’t loose them now, they are an important part of this process..if you want to keep the tire in the car. Once all the bolts are off and together, now you can take the tire off… carefully… it will be a little difficult but you’ll do just fine…this is the dirty part i told you about..so if your all dressed up, be extra careful. Now that you’ve taken the tire off, you have to get the spare on….once that is done put all the bolts back on the tire and tighten them as much as you can, lower the car and once again tighten those bolts.. take the jack off and put everything away in the trunk. Clean yourself off a bit depending on how dressed up you are…or just wait till you home to really clean off… By this time Ladies you should be proud of yourselves, you did something you probably have never done before…this will be one thing you can say that you don’t need a man for…so smile Ladies…

CONGRATS..AND YOU CAN PRACTICE AT HOME ALSO… YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN YOU MIGHT NEED THIS ADVICE..

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DIY automotive repair: How to diagnose steering problems – Part 2

March 29, 2011 By

The steering system in your car is a complex array of mechanical parts, fluids and of course, wheels.

Diagnosing problems in your vehicle’s steering are relatively easy to the trained eye or ear. In a perfect scenario, your car should travel in a fairly straight line if you let go of the steering wheel. Bear in mind, it may have a slight pull to the right under normal circumstances on a typical two-lane highway; most road surfaces are convex to allow for water run-off. So in fact, the right lane will be lower towards the shoulder causing your car to drift right.

Listed here are three typical steering issues and how to tell if your vehicle falls into a particular category:

1. Misalignment. If your car pulls drastically to the left or right, you could be in serious need of a front end (or more seriously a four-wheel) alignment. This can cause premature tread wear on your tires. If this does happen, even after an alignment your steering may seem off and you will need to replace your front tires.

2. Clunking noises. You may hear a slight knocking or clunking when going around corners or over bumps. Your first area of inspection should be your ball joints and/or tie-rod ends. To determine of you have a loose ball joint or tie-rod end: if possible, jack the affected side up so the wheel is off the ground. For ball joints, place your hands at the twelve o’clock and six o’clock positions of the wheel, then wiggle it. If there is play, you will need the ball joint replaced. For tie-rod ends, do the same but at the three o’clock and nine o’clock positions. Any play when wiggling the wheel in this fashion will result in a bad tie-rod end.

3. Groaning noises. Can you hear a low pitched howling noise coming from under the hood when you turn the wheel to take a corner? You may be low in power steering fluid. If upon checking the steering fluid reservoir you notice it is low, get it topped up. But you will need to find out where the fluid is going. The power steering pump may be faulty itself and in need of replacement.

It is a very wise idea to have your vehicle diagnosed by a professional in any case. These are only a few normal occurrences; your car may have another problem more serious in dire need of attention. Having a steering component fail can result in loss of control of the vehicle and result in an accident. Remember: if replacing any steering components such as the ball joints, tie-rod ends or even the steering rack itself, you must get an alignment done immediately to make sure you will be driving straight with no issues.

You owe it to yourself, your family as well as your car to keep the steering system in good working order.

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DIY automotive repair: How to change a flat tire – Part 10

March 28, 2011 By

Have you ever driven the highway at night and heard a “hissing” noise and then felt the steering wheel *shake*?

Then the whole car started to tremble?

Guess what?

You probable just had a blow-out, or at least you were having a flat tire-that’s what happens when all the air goes out of a tire.

Do you know how to change a tire?

It’s different on most cars.

And then there’s that little *toy* tire somewhere in the back that you have to put on to get to where you are going (if it’s not too far).

It all depends on the type of vehicle you are driving.

If it’s a pickup truck, you’re in luck. At least your spare will be either in the back of the truck, or, underneath the bed near the rear bumper.

That could be good, or it could not be good. It all depends on where you are and which tire went flat, the front, or the rear.

Anyway, let’s assume you can get to it on a pickup.

Usually, the manufacturer has it fastened up to the bottom of the bed with a cable that has a crank or twist mechanism.

If you are in a passenger car, or van, or station wagon you will find the spare tire in the back, or in the trunk (where you store your luggage when you go visit your in-laws).

On my wife’s Ford Taurus station wagon the spare is located in the back, on the left, behind a panel…the *toy* tire.

But, in the very back there is a flap you can pull up and get to the *real* tire if you have one.

Usually the jack is stored with the spare but sometimes, like hers, the jack is under the flap in the floor bed and the spare is stored in the side panel.

This brings up another situation.

Does your vehicle have *locking* wheel lug nuts?

Hers has them, and if you don’t have the key (a special lug nut looking thing with a funny-looking end on it, you can’t get that locking nut off.

Okay, we have the spare, the lug wrench, the jack, the locking lug nut tool.

All we have to do now is break the lug nuts loose, while the vehicle is still flat on the ground (no pun intended).

Take the lug wrench and place it onto one of the lug nuts and turn it to the *left* (I don’t think there are anymore left-handed nuts around, unless you own a Chrysler product from the ’60′s). :-)

After you break all the nuts loose (you did use the little tool to loosen the lock nut, didn’t you?) you can put the jack under the car to jack it up so the tire will roll free.

Now you can remove all the nuts and then the tire so you can put the spare on.

Where are

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DIY auto repair: Tune – Part 2

March 27, 2011 By

There are many preventative maintenance tasks that you can do yourself that will save you money and time. A lot of repairs are inexpensive, but when a professional does the repair work, you are paying for their time as well as for the marked up price on the parts. Here are some tips to help extend the life of your engine.

Changing your spark plugs and plug wires is the first tip I will talk of. By changing your spark plugs and wires, you not only restore performance to your engine, but you also get better fuel efficiency. There are several types of spark plugs and types of plug wires to choose from. The most expensive is not always the best choice. When doing the change, note which wires are connected to which plugs as you need to reconnect them in the proper order. If you don’t, your engine timing will be off and the engine will run rough or not start at all.

Another tip is changing your oil, oil filter, and air filter every 3,000 miles or 6 months. This will ensure the longevity or your engine and save you from some very expensive repairs later due to engine heat damage, wear and tear, and dirt.

Changing any cracked or worn belts is also a cheap fix and will prevent you from being stranded by an engine that will not run. Most cars these days have only one large belt that connects to all the pulleys, but some older cars can have up to 4 or 5 belts.

Maintaining proper air pressure in your tires is essential for fuel efficiency. Rotating your tires every 6,000 miles is also a great way to get the most out of your tires life.

Replace any worn or leaking hoses to save your engine from overheating, causing severe or fatal damage to your engine. Sometimes a leak is just the result of a loose clamp. Try tightening the clamp near the leak and see if that helps.

There are many people who use additives to clean the inside of the engine, removing build up or just cleaning the fuel injectors. There are many options available on the market. From fuel system cleaners to injector cleaners. These products help your engine from the inside.

These are some do-it-yourself tips to maintain your engine and get the most out of your vehicles performance.

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DIY automotive repair: How to diagnose steering problems – Part 4

March 26, 2011 By

Steering problems can be a complicated subject for those not experienced in such things. If you encounter a steering problem think back to when it really began. Did it come on slowly or was it sudden? Did you hit something in the road or run through a deep pothole just before the problem appeared? If the power assist failed, can you still guide the vehicle while moving or not? Questions such as these may lead one to the source of the problem and sometimes will be asked by the service technician.

Steering problems in general can be anything from suspension problems or alignment problems to outright gear failure.

Wandering on the road without slack in the steering itself can signal loose or damaged suspension parts, some steering parts or wheel alignment problems. Look for a possible bent tie rod as too much toe out will make a vehicle wander on the road. Check the steer tires by rubbing your open palm back and forth across the tread. Sharp edges felt in one direction but not the other is a sign of toe problems. Pulling or drifting in one direction can signal camber or cross caster problems with possible worn or damaged ball joints, etc. Also look for slack in only one tie rod end or idler arm etc. Slack in one tie rod end can cause wander without necessarily causing steering slack. Idler arm slack can possibly do the same thing. Look for signs of damage or movement in all the suspension parts.

If there is slack in the steering check out the steering components while someone else gently turns the steering wheel back and forth. Do not actually turn the tires but only move the steering wheel as much as the slack allows. Where you see movement of one part and not of the adjoining part will be the source of the slack (note: some steering gears normally have a small amount of slack without the engine running). Look on the steering shaft (column shaft) just below the firewall and see if there is movement in the link located in that steering shaft. Check the pitman arm for slack (draglink on larger vehicles). If there is slack with the engine running, check to see if the output shaft moves on the steering gear when the input shaft moves. Follow on through all the steering parts in like manner.

If there is complete or partial failure of the power assist, be sure to check the power steering fluid level and drive belt to the power steering pump. Loose or slipping drive belts are a common cause of power assist problems. If there is no fluid in the reservoir

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DIY automotive repair: How to diagnose battery failure – Part 3

March 25, 2011 By

When it comes to cars, any “do-it-yourselfer” will tell you, that in the wide spectrum of repairs to be made, electrical ones are, by far, the most annoying and irritating ones to diagnose.

It’s no mystery to most people how the electrical system in their cars works. There is a battery that provides power, and an alternator that sustains it. These are the most obvious components, and should be addressed first if one cannot maintain current.

Consider the battery: how long has it been since a new one was installed? Often batteries simply lose the ability to maintain a charge and therefore must be renewed. However, it is in your best interest to make certain this is the problem before rushing off to buy a new one. Spend $10 or $15 dollars to first acquire a “multi-meter” to test the voltage of the battery.

With the car off, the reading between the two terminals on the battery should be somewhere between 11 and 13 volts. With the car turned on, the reading should be somewhere between 13 and 16 volts.

Check the voltage immediately after driving the car, and then check it again after leaving the car sitting for 24 to 48 hours. If the voltage drops significantly during this time, there are two possible explanations.

1) The battery is losing its ability to maintain a charge. To test for this, disconnect the battery from the vehicle immediately after driving and check voltage. Retest after 24 to 48 hours. If the voltage has dropped the same amount again while disconnected, consider a new battery.

2) There is an excessive load placed on the battery while the car is off. Car batteries come with a rating called “amp-hours” which indicates how long the battery can sustain a good charge even with a load placed on it. Most batteries come with a rating of 60 or 80 hours per specified amperage amount (which is an amount of current), so with a normal load most batteries will be able to maintain a charge for 60 to 80 hours (or whatever the specified amp hour rating is). Many things can cause excessive loads while the vehicle is off. Accessories such as amplifiers and security systems can sometimes be to blame, but also consider the possibility that there is a fault in the wiring somewhere, in which case it is probably advisable to put a professional to work.

If the voltage reading does not spike (go up) while the engine is running, there is a charging issue.

If this is the case, it’s probably worthwhile to have the alternator tested. Many auto-part stores will perform this service for a marginal fee, if not at no cost at all. The alternator is responsible for maintaining voltage while the engine is running, and if it isn’t capable of performing this duty, excess strain will be placed on the battery.

It is also important to note that many significantly older vehicles have a separate component that should be inspected called the “Voltage Regulator.” This critical piece maintains a constant flow of power from the alternator to the battery, and if it fails it can keep an otherwise healthy alternator from doing its job. It is important to note, however, that almost all post-1990 vehicles have alternators that have incorporated a built-in voltage regulator.

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DIY automotive maintenance: How to change the oil – Part 1

March 24, 2011 By

Motor oil id different than other types of. Motor oil is designed to clean, lubricate parts, and take heat away from the engine. Some other types of oils are; standard transmission oil, automatic transmission oil, gear oil, and hydraulic oil. Each of these oils is designed for a specific task.Never use these oils in the engine of your vehicle. The grade of oil is determined by The Society of Automotive Engineers. Grades range from 0 to 120. For most cars it’s 0 60. This is called viscosity. Viscosity is the thickness of the oil. Think of 0 as pouring light syrup and 120 is like pouring vegetable oil. The SAE determines different grades since cars and trucks are designed differently. The each require different viscosities since engines are built with closer tolerances than others.

What kind of materials do you need to change your oil?

1)Kendall oil.

2)Oil Filter

3)Appropriate wrench. Use a socket wrench. It’s easier to manage.

4)Oil filter wrench.

5)Large oil catch pan.

6)Jack-stands to support the vehicle.

7)Jack to raise the vehicle.

8)Funnel and shop rags.

Finding the right motor oil for your vehicle is not difficult. There are many resources like the Internet. Search on line for a do-it-yourself automotive repair website or an on line parts supplier. Use the step by step instructions and find the exact motor oil and filter needed. They will have listed the amount of motor oil your vehicle requires. You may also look at a repair manual in the library for amount of oil needed. Buying a repair manual is perhaps the best bet. They are informative and concise. If you still have an owners manual then peruse it for the information.

Before starting ask yourself these questions:

Did I research the exact oil and oil filter for my car?

Do I have all the materials needed to complete the task?

Do I know the location to jack the vehicle up?

1) Open the hood. Locate the Oil cap located on the valve cover. Place the funnel in the inlet and place rags around it.

2)Let the car sit for an hour to cool a bit. Wear a long sleeve shirt or keep a rag in your hand.

3)Jack the car up at the prescribed location.

4)Place a jack stand underneath on a frame rail. The frame rail looks like a long square tube that extends the length of the car.

5)Lower the jack slowly until the frame sits solidly on the jack stand. This is for your safety.

6)Using a large oil catch pan, place it under the crankcase oil pan. This will look rectangular and have a fastener or bolt.

7)Unfasten the bolt using your wrench or socket. Keep your rag handy.Make sure to keep your head out of the way and at arm’s length. Let the oil drain. Place the bolt back on by hand until it snugs. Tighten it with the wrench, but don’t force it. If it cross-threads then it may leak.

8)Remove the catch pan. Take the new filter and pour it full of oil and put oil on the rubber seal.

9)remove the oil filter with the oil wrench by placing the loop over the filter and turning the handle. When it is snug rotate it to the left. Remember, lefty loosey, righty tight.

10)Spin the new filter on by hand and makes sure it snug. Don’t force it!

11)Recheck everything then pour the correct amount of oil into the funnel. The oil quarts are designed to flow with the flat part up and the diagonal neck down. Put the oil cap back on.

12)Raise the vehicle. Take out the jack and lower the vehicle.

Congratulations, you have replaced you oil and saved money and a trip to the quick-lube.

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DIY automotive repair: How to diagnose suspension problems

March 24, 2011 By

So you think you have a suspension problem. You probably know that the suspension system is the package of pieces that keeps you car from dragging it’s good bits along the road making sparks and ugly noises. It is the collection of clever tricks which , when working in tune, can keep the fenders off the tires and the tires in touch with the road.

If you are in your car and notice that one or more of the wheels feels like it has the hick ups each time you hit a pot hole, it is time to have your shock absorbers looked at.

If you are driving around an underground car park and you hear the echo of a grinding or rattle as you hit the bottom of the ramps, it is probably a message from the mounting points or the rubbers in the mounts. The message is “Nothing lasts for ever”.

If one of your observant friends points out that the tread area of your tires look a bit like the face of Bruce at the half way point of ’4.0′. That can be those pesky shockers yet again. Even though you can do the old push the corner of the car down and count one and a half bounces, a worn shock can allow the wheel to chatter on the road, causing uneven and unsafe wear on the tire.

While the shocks are the most attention grabbing piece of the puzzle, your suspension needs to be well tied together to keep gravity from claiming more victims. Check your wish bone mountings and ball joints for excess free play. Just like the other play, too much of it will bring you undone.

Slack in the suspension components will creep in over time. If you are not alert, it will cost you money in extra tire wear, if you let that go then the longer you leave it the more pieces become involved. There are plenty of little indicators for failing suspension. Pay attention to those shakes and rattles when she rolls, and you should avoid being let down by over stretched suspenders.

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DIY automotive maintenance: How to change the oil – Part 9

March 23, 2011 By

Nowadays a simple oil change can cost you at least $25. Most owners’ manuals recommend a new oil change every 3,000 miles. In today’s economy, most of us have to tighten their belts, but it is not recommended to skimp on oil changes. Regular oil changes are recommended in order to ensure a smooth running engine. This will not only reduce gasoline expenses, but also without an oil change, the motor oil in your car will get dirtier and dirtier eventually resulting in a ruined engine. If you are remotely handy, you can save some money by doing your own oil change. Changing your car’s motor oil is an easy do-it-yourself job as long as you don’t mind getting a little dirty. Even women will find this is a maintenance job for their car they can easily handle themselves. Just follow this easy eight-step instruction guide:

1. Gather your gear

As a first step to changing your own motor oil you will have to gather up all the materials and tools. Just like when baking a pie, you don’t want to have to search for an ingredient’ in the middle of the oil changing process. If you don’t already own the required materials, you will be able to purchase them at a local automotive, hardware, or mass-merchandising store. Here is a list of materials needed:

- Oil (Consult your car’s owner’s manual or a sales associate as to the type of oil needed)

- Ratcheting Wrench

- Socket Set

- Oil Filter Wrench

- New oil filter (Check with your owner’s manual or a sales associate as to the type needed)

- A bucket to drain your old oil into (The average engine holds five to six quarts of oil)

- Ramps (For safety purposes you should not use car jacks to elevate the car)

- Something to lay on, while working under the car (If you want more comfort, you might want

to choose something to lay with your back on that also has wheels to easily roll yourself

under the car)

- Sturdy gloves

- Old rag/shop rag for cleaning up small spills

- Funnel

2. Elevate the car

An oil change requires that you get under your car in a convenient manner as the oil is drained from the underside of the car. Therefore, unless you drive a car, where the underside is already high enough of the ground for you to conveniently move underneath it and drain the oil, you will have to raise the car somehow off the ground. It is not recommended to use jacks for this purpose as they could easily collapse and trap you under the car most likely resulting in severe injuries.

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