DIY automotive repair: How to repair windshield wipers – Part 1

March 23, 2011 By

Interested in how to repair your windshield wipers? The windshield wiper system in any vehicle is more or less simple and repairs in most instances can be carried out on your own once you have a little technical competence.

Before any repair is effected on a windshield wiper system, the exact problem needs to be identified. Problems may range from very simple such as worn out wiper blades or a bit more complex such as an electrical problem whereby the motor isn’t receiving any current.

I have written a list of problems encountered with windshield wiper systems below together with the respective causes and repair actions:

1) The windshield wipers operate (wiper blades leave excessive streaks on windshield or are noisy during operation) – This problem can be caused by worn out/damaged wiper blades. The best repair action would be to replace the wiper blades with a new pair.

2) The windshield wipers do not operate (wiper motor heats up or makes a humming noise) – This problem can be caused by either one of the following: an internal motor being defective, a bent/damaged linkage or even if the arms were not properly installed on the linkage pivots (may be noticed if you had recent repairs on the wiper system). The best repair action in each instance would be: have the motor serviced by a reputable electrician if the internal motor is found to be defective, repair or replace the linkage if the linkage is found to be bent/damaged and position the linkage in park & re-install the wiper arms if they were not properly installed.

3) The windshield wipers do not operate (No current to the motor) – This problem can be caused by either one of the following: if a fuse or circuit breaker is blown/loose/open or has broken wiring, if you have a defective switch, defective or corroded terminals or if there is no ground circuit for the motor or switch. The best repair action in each instance would be (listed in the same order as the problems): have the fuse or circuit breaker replaced by a qualified auto electrician, have the wiring and connections repaired (again by a qualified electrician), have the switch replaced, repair or clean the terminals and finally repair the ground circuits. N.B these tasks should be performed by a qualified electrician especially if its the first time you are troubleshooting wiper problems. If electrical work isn’t done correctly, it can lead to further damage to other vehicular components or even injury in some instances.

4) The windshield wipers do not operate (motor runs) – This problem can be caused by a disconnected or broken linkage. The best repair action would be to re-connect the wiper linkage or replace the broken linkage.

The problems and associated repair actions listed above should cover all the problems that can be encountered with automobile wiper systems. In cases where you are not sure what to do (especially with electrical problems), get assistance from a qualified auto electrician! Otherwise be safe and have fun!

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DIY automotive repair: How to repair windshield wipers

March 22, 2011 By

Having trouble with your windshield wipers? Since wiper trouble could be anything from needing new wiper blades to needing a new wiper motor, linkage, wiring, a switch, relay or a fuse, you must first do a little trouble-shooting. The first thing to determine is exactly what is the problem with your wipers. When you turn them on, does anything happen? If you see smoke, look where it’s coming from and that is the source of your problem. That is likely the easiest diagnosis you could get. If there is no smoke, forget about your plans to collect the insurance money and go on with your trouble-shooting.

If the wipers work basically normally but don’t clear the windshield, it sounds like simple wiper blade replacement is all you need. If you can’t figure this out, you have no business even trying to work on a car. Chances are the store or gas station you buy your new wiper blades from can change them for you.

If they fail to do anything, check carefully and see if they even try to move a bit. It is easier at this point to have one person inside turning the wipers on and off as you instruct, while you carefully examine the wipers themselves. If they are trying to move, but don’t do anything more than wiggle slightly, chances are either the wiper motor or wiper pivots are seized, or something is jamming them. You have eliminated the possibility of a lack of electrical power. They wouldn’t move at all if there was no power. If they wiggle but won’t do more, unbolt the wiper motor from the car and try moving the wipers by hand. They should move freely. If they do, your problem was with the wiper motor. Replace it. If they don’t move now, the problem is likely the pivots (the point where the wiper arms attach to the car). First try spraying a good penetrating oil in and around the pivots and try to work the arms back and forth. If they don’t move, they may have to be unbolted from the car and soaked in penetrating oil overnight. Since every car is different in the way these pivots are attached, if you can’t easily figure it out by looking, consult a shop manual for directions.

If the pivots are moving freely, but the arms don’t move, the problem is most likely your wiper motor. First check for power. As in the previous example, if it tries to move, you must have power, but if it doesn’t, a simple test light will help here. Ground the clip end of the test light and touch the pointy end to the wire connections at the motor. You should consult a wiring diagram

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DIY auto repair: Tune – Part 1

March 22, 2011 By

To most people popping the hood of a car is like looking at an uncharted jungle on metal, rubber, and plastic. This does not have to be the case. Giving a car a tune up can be as simple as changing the oil and should be done regularly. Keeping your car in good running tune is really a easy task once the fear of entering that metal jungle is conquered. Here are a few tips to keeping your car in good standing tune by yourself.

The very first thing anyone that has not been under the hood of a car or is not familiar with that jungle of metal, is to get out the owners manual and look for the key things that make your car run. Things such as: where the oil dip stick is, where the air filter is, how much PSI of air should be in the tires, where the transmission dip stick is (if the car has one), and where the radiator fluid sight is. Another good thing to check in the owners manual is what type of fluid is recommended for that particular fluid. Why are these things important? Like us, vehicles need fluids to survive and the better the quality of those fluids, the better they will run.

Maintaining oil. Oil lubricated the moving parts in the engine and keep it from locking up. The older and more used the oil is, the worse it will be at performing its job. Maintaining oil in a car is as simple as checking its level and changing it at the recommended mileage. Even changing the oil yourself is simple once you know what to look for. Mostly under the car, find your oil pan, get a catch pan under the nut on the oil pan, unscrew the nut and let the oil drain, then tighten the nut, pop the hood and fill up to the recommended level.

Maintaining the air filter. Once again as in everything, refer to your owners manual to find where these parts are at. Find the air filter and see how dirty it is. If it looks extremely dirty clean it, if its a reusable one or buy a new air filter. Not only will this let the car breath easier, it will help save on gas. I recommend buying a K & N or like air filter, since they are reusable and easy to clean and install.

Maintaining proper PSI in the tires. Maintaining proper air PSI in the tires will not only improve the tires life span but will sometimes help with gas mileage. This is probably the easiest thing to maintain on a vehicle but can also be one of the most overlooked things. Checking the PSI is as simple as getting a hold of a air gauge, unscrewing the stem cap on the tire, and connecting the gauge to it to read what the PSI is in the tire. To find what PSI your tires should be at, check the owners manual or check around the doors or where the doors close onto the frame of the vehicle.

Maintaining radiator fluid. Find where the radiator reservoir is at in the vehicle and check the sight gauge to see if its at the required level for the vehicle. If its low, you can add the required fluid by popping off the cap on the reservoir and adding until it meets the requirements. Do not attempt to do this after just driving the car, the radiator fluid is under pressure and can explode out once the cap is removed, the best thing to do if you notice the level is low, is to wait until the car has been sitting for an hour before attempting to add more fluid. Radiator fluid is important because it keeps the engine cool, and a cooler engine will produce more power easier and help maintain better gas mileage.

These are just a few easy ways to keep your car in tune by doing it yourself. Not one of these task should take over fifteen minutes and most should take only a couple on minutes.

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DIY automotive repair: How to change a flat tire – Part 2

March 22, 2011 By

The first thing you have to make sure before you start to change a flat tyre is to ensure that you have all the necessary tools that will enable you to change your tyre and these things are a spare wheel(tyre),a jack,a wheel spanner and also a block.These are the most important tools you need to have but you might also need to have a mat incase where you need to change your tyre there is much dirt or mud so this will make you to prevent you from getting the dirt or the mud.

Secondly you have to ensure that your vehicle is parked on a place that is not steep.It should be somehow a flat place to avoid the vehicle from moving.Then you also need to put your vehicle in gear also to avoid from moving the vehicle.After doing this you need to put blocks to the other tyres that are fine this is also to avoid the vehicle from moving.

After this you take the wheel spanner and start to loose the nuts on the flat tyre but they should not be removed completely.After loosing the nuts then take your jack and put it on tha side where the flat tyre is and raise it until the tyre is hanging.There should be a considerable space between flat tyre and the ground because the new tyre you are going to put has a larger diameter than the flat tyre.

After doing this then you finish loosing the nuts until they are completely removed then you take out the flat tyre and you put it just behind or just in front of the jack depending whether the flat tyre was a rear or a front this is just a precautionary measure in case the jack can fall.

After this you take the new tyre and but it and you take the nuts and tighten them abit then you make the jack to go down and then remove it and also the flat tyre on the side.After the tyre is down then you tighten the nuts even more so that it should be strong.

You then take the flat tyre and put it back in the boot inorder to take it to repair.You then remove the blocks then start off to whereever you are going.

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DIY automotive maintenance: How to change the oil – Part 5

March 22, 2011 By

One of the most important automotive maintenance procedures that will increase the longevity of your vehicle’s engine is an oil change. If an engine is not properly maintained with regularly scheduled motor oil changes, it will experience premature wear on cylinder walls; crankshaft and camshaft bearings; as well as other vital internal components that contribute to engine performance.


As a rule of thumb, and according to the automobile manufacturer’s recommendation on automotive maintenance, an engine’s oil should be changed every three months or 3,000 miles – whichever comes first. Regularly scheduled oil changes will not only reduce premature wear on your engine, and increases its longevity while simultaneously maintaining engine performance at an ideal level; it will also give you peace of mind from knowing you have once again ended the possibility of engine damage due to poor oil maintenance.

An oil change is a very simple procedure. With the proper tools and a little know-how, you’ll be done in no time. Just follow these simple steps:

(1) Locate the oil pan at the bottom of the engine and remove the drain plug using either a box wrench or socket/ratchet combination. (Drain plug sizes will vary depending on the year, make, model, and engine size of your vehicle).

(2) Allow the oil to drain completely; then reinstall the drain plug and be careful not to over-tighten it when you do. A stripped drain plug can lead to costly repairs.

(3) Locate the oil filter and remove it with an oil filter wrench by turning it in a counter clockwise direction. This step may be tricky if the location of your filter is in a tight spot.

(4) Install the new filter by turning it in a clockwise direction. DO NOT tighten the filter with an oil filter wrench. HAND-TIGHTEN ONLY!

TIP: Put a dab of clean oil on your fingertip and run it along the rubber seal at the bottom of the filter before you install it.

(5) Remove the oil filler cap at the top of the engine and place it in a safe spot. You’ll save time without the need to search for it if it falls.

(6) Insert a funnel into the opening and carefully pour the new oil into it.

NOTE: Check your owner’s manual, or contact the service department at a local automobile dealership, for specifications on oil capacity and viscosity.Use only SAE approved motor oil in accordance to your automobile’s manufacturer.

(7) Carefully reinstall the oil filler cap on the oil filler tube. Make sure its secure!

(8)

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DIY automotive repair: How to diagnose battery failure – Part 5

March 22, 2011 By

So you have a problem with your starting system. How do you deal with it yourself instead of hiring it done then waiting days for your vehicle?

Well, if the vehicle is not new there is a good chance your battery cable ends at the battery are not making good connection or either your battery or starter motor has gone bad. If no warning lights came on when you last drove the vehicle, there would be doubts as to whether the alternator is inoperative. If the alternator light was on then you have problems with your alternator or it’s drive belt. Incidentally, a lose or otherwise slipping drive belt can generate enough voltage to keep your light off but the battery will slowly discharge over time. A quick check of your alternator’s drive belt is in order.

A clicking noise coming from under the hood when you turn the key to start position is the starter relay. There is not enough “juice” getting to the starter to make the starter motor work! A very small amount of current will energize the relay however. The worst case scenario of a clicking relay would be the starter motor has stopped working for several possible reasons including completely going bad or the starter relay is failing to make an adequate connection to the starter.

If you are fortunate enough to have access to a volt/ohm meter, place the selector on the meter to DC volts then hold the black lead to the negative battery post and the red lead to the red post. Make sure they make good contact with the posts by either wiggling them while holding to the post or cleaning a place on each post first. A well charged battery should read 13.5 to 13.7 volts. A starter will still work a little while if the voltage reads 9-12 volts (the exact amount of voltage required depends on the starter motor and engine size/design).

Next hold the volt/ohm meter leads to a well cleaned place ON THE CABLE ENDS. A difference in readings indicate that your battery cables are not making good connection with your battery.

(To prevent damage to sensitive electronics in today’s vehicles, I should stop to make a note here and say there is no place on a modern vehicle for use of a test light. Period. Test lights are a tool of the past and belong there, in the past)

Check your battery cable ends to see if there is a buildup of greenish corrosion on them. If there is, that would be a good starting place. If proper tools are available, take the negative cable off the battery first (black cable or the one where the battery displays

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DIY automotive maintenance: How to change the oil – Part 12

March 21, 2011 By

YES, YOU CAN CHANGE YOUR OWN MOTOR OIL

Carel Two-Eagle

Other than a house, the biggest purchase most people ever make is a vehicle. It’s a mystery why so many people think that washing their car regularly and often is vital to its upkeep, but changing the oil is not.

There is no decent job, no matter how much gook or dirt may be involved, that is beneath a person of dignity and quality. Changing the oil is both vital to the longevity of the vehicle and simple to do. I insisted that all of my girls learn how to change their own oil, spark plugs, and tires, just as I insisted that my boys learn to sew, cook, and do laundry. Why? There won’t always be someone of the “right” gender there to do it for you or if there is, that s/he will know how to do it properly. My uncles taught me this, and they were right. All 11 of them.

I have run all of my vehicles well over 200,000 miles. They have often been pretty filthy on the outside, but they ran just fine. Under no circumstances have I ever neglected to change my oil. I have been so broke a couple of times that the choice was “feed me or change the oil”. I changed the oil. I can scrounge food if I’m in real need, but I can’t scrounge oil or an oil filter for the vehicle.

Oil is your vehicle motor’s blood. As you run your vehicle, the heat from the motor breaks the oil down into various components. Some of them are acids which will eat your pistons and piston rings. Others of them combine to make sludge, which will clog your engine’s ports, cause heat buildup, and ultimately, destroy your engine. That’s why you change both the oil and the oil filter every time you change your oil.

There are many brands of oil on the market Mobil is a good one; Kendall is another. They have both been around a long time and both test their oils in the toughest environment for oils racing. Within every brand, there are different varieties of oil. Some are for high-mileage engines (those having run 75,000 miles or more); some are for diesel engines; some motor oils are synthetic, meaning they are formulated with special additives not found in crude oil; they are man-made or synthetic. If you want to learn a great deal about motor oils, including comparisons of them, I suggest you go to www.TrustMyMechanic.com . The information there is easy to read and understand, and reliable.

You will need a few simple tools in order to change your oil. Old clothes, because used oil is dirty and won’t

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DIY automotive repair: How to change a flat tire – Part 7

March 21, 2011 By

Hopefully you’ll never find yourself flying down the road to suddenly have your tire blow out or go flat. However, during the course of most drivers lives they will have had their share of flat tires and blowouts. I personally have been driving for the last almost 10 years and I have had probably 7 or 8 flat tires and one really incredible blow out, which shot the rim off and everything. But, even if this does happen to you, most likely you’ll be able to fix the problem on the spot.

If you purchased your vehicle new, you should have a spare tire in the trunk, under the vehicle, or on the back of the vehicle, depending upon the type of vehicle you drive. This spare tire, also called a donut is generally only rated to drive for so many miles before replacing it. The tire is meant to realistically get you home and then take you to get the tire fixed the next day. However, I have seen many people driving on these tires for weeks at a time before they got their tire fixed. Just keep in mind, this is not the wisest of ideas in the world.

To change your tire, find the spare, and you’ll find a tire change kit as well most likely in the trunk this generally comes with your tire. If you don’t have one, you are going to have to either call someone that has one, get a tow truck or wave someone down that can hopefully help you.

Inside this kit you should have a four socket setup connected together, looking somewhat like an addition sign and place it next to the tire. You’ll also find a small jack. Look under your vehicle and find a beam running along the bottom of you car near the tire that you want to change. Place the jack directly under that aligned down the middle of it. Use the tire iron to twist the knob and raise the jack into place. Get the jack up next to the bottom of the vehicle and check it’s position. If it looks centered and is close to the tire you are attempting to change, proceed by raise the jack further. It is going to become difficult to twist, but with a little muscle you can make it raise regardless of how small you are. Once the vehicle tire is high enough off the ground that you can see light under it, you are free to take the old tire off.

To take off the tire take the tire iron, and use it to twist off the lug nuts. They might be hard to get off, because they are installed with power tools. If you have issues, try stomping on the tire iron, that normally works just fine. Now that you have all the lug nuts off, you can pull the tire off by pulling it straight out. Now quickly place the new tire in place where the old tire was.

You are going to want to place the lug nuts on the tire one at a time. Make sure that you are installing the lug nuts in a diagonal pattern, don’t just install them one after another as this could cause alignment issues in the way your tire is seated, with it possibly coming lose on the road. Most likely won’t happen in the short period of time you are using the donut, but still possible. Now, take the tire iron and tighten the lug nuts as hard as you can. Don’t worry about over tightening them because they are going to use power tools to take them off anyway. It’s better to have them too tight than too loose at this point in time.

Now, lower the jack by twisting the knob the other way or finding the hydraulic release button. It all depends on the type of jack that you have. After that, put up all of your tools and you are done. Changing a tire is very easy to do and shouldn’t take more than 10-20 minutes. However if you can’t get the lug nuts off it could take a lot longer and could require a much big socket to get enough torque to pry it off.

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DIY automotive repair: How to replace spark plugs

March 21, 2011 By

Spark Plugs: General Information

The spark plug ignites the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber and good condition is essential for the smooth running and fuel efficiency of your engine. Corrosion, deposit build-up or a gap incorrectly set, can cause symptoms ranging from misfire to failure of one or more cylinders.

A spark plug consists of a central electrode with its upper part encased in ceramic. The earth/ground, or side electrode, with its threaded lower part screws into the cylinder head. A push-fit plastic suppressor cap and cable connects it to the high tension side of the ignition system.

Before describing the general procedure for removal and replacement let’s take an overview of what is available.

Most vehicle manufacturers recommend specific makes, and grades, of plug but you won’t have problems using a good quality match. All the major players offer high quality: Champion, Autolite, Bosch and NGK to name but a few. Autolite claim enhanced durability and longer life. If you stick with the well established makers you really can’t go wrong as long as you obtain the correct grade for your engine. Dealers usually have a conversion chart if you don’t want to follow the manufacturers’ recommendation.

There is some controversy concerning anti-seize products. These are used to prevent the plug jamming in the cylinder head. If the threads are clean and undamaged these compounds shouldn’t be necessary but may make it easier to remove the plug next time around. It’s probably a good idea on older engines but use sparingly: it can get on to the electrodes and reduce efficiency.

Removal and Refitting

Once you have located the plugs the first thing to do is to pull off the cap/s. Be aware that cap placement is arranged according to the firing order of the engine and MUST go back in the same order. It might be a good idea to mark or number them to aid refitting.

Old or previously overtightened plugs can be difficult to remove so it’s important to use the correct tool. A deep socket or purpose-built plug wrench is the best, with a bar or handle long enough to give good leverage. It should be placed over the plug square on, secure and of the correct size (there are several sizes of plug). A sharp tug on the handle should break the seal and it can then be unscrewed.

Spark plugs can often be cleaned with a wire brush and re-used. After removal you can check them out by pushing each one back into a cap and resting the lower end against the cylinder head. Get someone to spin the engine on the starter and look for a fat, blue spark. A yellow, feeble spark means problems.

Before fitting new or cleaned-up plugs you should check the gap. For this you will need a feeler gauge of the correct thickness. This is inserted between the two electrodes in the center of the plug. It should be a sliding fit with no play. If for some reason you don’t have the recommended setting: leave it be.

Refit by carefully screwing the plug down, if there is resistance make sure the threads are not crossed; forcing it will damage the cylinder head. When fully inserted tighten it a further quarter turn with the socket. Do not overtighten.

Push the suppressor caps back on in the correct order and you’re done.

580 words

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DIY automotive repair: How to repair windshield wipers – Part 2

March 21, 2011 By

Windshield wipers/washer systems are still one of the few systems on a vehicle that have only a few components. Thankfully, that makes the diagnosing of problems fairly simple. If everything seems to be working properly but your windshield just isn’t wiping clean; your wiper blades need changed.

You can have your wiper blades changed for free when you purchase the replacement blades at one of the chain store auto parts stores like Advance Auto Parts. New blades are available in several price ranges and styles. You can choose replacement blades with some color and/or with the season in mind. Winter blades don’t pack up with snow and ice as easily as a summer blade will.

If you would rather do it yourself, it is a simple process but be warned; those darn little attachment pins can be a real pain. Even when you buy replacement blades specifically for your model, there are usually more than one set of possible attachments. Look closely at the style you have on your wiper arms and make sure you choose the right ones. Models can vary quite a bit so follow the instructions on the package for installation of the new blades.

Pull the arm away from the glass and look for a small tab where the arm inserts into the blade. Most models have a tab that will need depressed with a small screwdriver or similar tool to release the blade. Be sure not to let the bare metal arm snap back on to the glass when you remove the old blade. You can put a scratch or a ding in your windshield.

The systems vary between manufacturers. Vehicles made by the same manufacturer vary between years and models. If your particular problem can’t be solved by changing the wiper blades and you are determined to do it yourself; invest in a repair manual specifically for your vehicle. It will be invaluable for diagnostics and removal and replacement (R&R) of parts. The manuals are available at most auto parts.

If you’re having other problems with your windshield wipers, check the obvious first. If you’re not getting washer fluid check the fluid level. If the reservoir is full, check the jets. Some models have the jets on the wiper arm, where others will be mounted on the vehicle itself right below the windshield. Check for visible clogs, especially in the winter.

Trace the feeder line from the bottom of your windshield back to the reservoir tank. Look for crimps, holes, etc. Don’t overlook the spot where the tube attaches to the reservoir. Check the bottom of the tank itself. On older

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